Glocker grew up in a tiny town in Austria, the place he was anticipated to acquire in excess of his family’s resort, but, he instructed me, right after culinary school, “I packed my bags and remaining,” to cook with Gordon Ramsay, in London and New York, and Charlie Trotter, in Chicago, where he found that he beloved self-discipline in the kitchen. That discipline was on total show during his seven several years as the chef and co-owner of Bâtard, in Tribeca, wherever he was showered with accolades for the restaurant’s genial fantastic dining at a technical epitome. When Bâtard closed through the pandemic for the 2nd time, in 2021, and the Breslin house turned readily available, Glocker—who’d “had a business enterprise strategy in my pocket for rather a while”—took the plunge on his desire job.
Koloman Moser’s visible affect is evident in meticulous, beautiful details through the cafe, this kind of as brass mild fixtures re-made from Moser’s patterns, and the grand bar, backlit in amber and anchored by a prepare-station-worthy brass-and-mica clock—but the food stuff is all Glocker. The restricted menu functions coyly partaking twists on classic French and Viennese cuisine. Duck-liver parfait is topped with a gelée of Kracher, Austria’s rival to France’s Sauternes. The beets in the Roasted Beets “Linzer” style approximately candied, their sweetness from raspberry vinegar they are tossed with tiny squares of shortbread. (“Didn’t glance like a Linzer torte, but it tasted like it,” a good friend proclaimed.) Oversized gougères (no grievances right here) include Bergkäse, Nice Ridge Reserve, and Cheddar cheese and pink-wine-braised shallots into pâte à choux dough they’re baked in muffin tins, yielding most caramelized crust and a gooey center.
Glocker’s Quick Rib & Tafelspitz Terrine was born from a reverie of Sunday meals following church. “My father took me to the nearby restaurant, and we experienced boiled beef”—Tafelspitz, named for the slice of meat made use of, primarily tri-tip. “The leftovers we took home. He had it in the fridge, it just kind of jellified, and then he took it out, sliced it, put a small bit of vinaigrette more than the best, a piece of bread. That was it. It was delightful.” For Glocker’s terrine, he cooks beef shoulder, chuck, and major round, chills them in their broth, and slices the result for layers of the terrine, which receives wrapped in carrots cooked in the exact same broth. It’s served chilled, completed with Styrian pumpkin-seed oil, a high-finish chilly-pressed specialty of Styria, Austria egg yolk and tarragon cream acquire the edge off the austerity of the meat.
A completely crisp schnitzel commences with a veal loin—more tender than the standard top rated round—which gets shallow-fried in clarified butter. Its bevy of accompaniments incorporates lingonberry and sea-buckthorn sauces, to slice the richness with sweet-and-sour tang and a lively potato salad—“You have to leave it out,” Glocker stated, “as quickly as you put potato salad in the fridge the flavor’s gone”—made the way his mom did, appropriately seasoned with vinegar.
There are other standouts—beef tenderloin with a bone-marrow-and-brioche crust, served with marvellous Baumkuchen, potato-pancake rings crammed with potato purée significant cross-sections of salmon sandwiched in a cracklingly crisp tramezzini-bread croûte. For 1 past surprise, try out the crème brûlée. You’d never guess it, but Glocker has identified that duck egg transforms custard into a cloudlike great. (Dishes $15-$60.) ♦